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Yellow Professional White Hair Coverage
White Hair Coverage
This is the essential guide to white hair coverage using Yellow. In this guide, you will learn the fundamentals that will ensure the perfect coverage time after time.
Yellow’s low ammonia formula and micro pigment delivery system allows us to gain white hair coverage using low volume of peroxides.
Yellow rules of white hair coverage
- 50% or less white hair – no need to add a base colour, use target tone only.
- 50% or more white hair – use equal parts of the base colour and target shade.
- 100% white – With NO natural pigmented hair use qual part of base and target with 20 Vol.
What is white hair?
This is an area where there can be confusion. When hair loses its natural pigment, it becomes white and when mixed amongst natural pigmented hair can give the appearance of a grey colour. To discover the % of white hair look at the new regrowth of hair and not an extended regrowth as this will have been subject to environmental factors.
How to achieve white hair coverage
Your consultation is key to achieving coverage. By gaining the answers to these 3 questions you will be able to make the correct choices for white hair coverage.
To get 100% white hair coverage you need to understand the below in your consultation.
- What is the natural base of the colour (not the appearance of white and natural mixed together, the actual strands of natural hair closest to the scalp)?
- What is the percentage of white hair?
- What is the target shade desired?
There is no need to adjust your mixing ratios but choosing the right peroxide will allow you to lift the natural hair to the desired shade.
If you fail to correctly assess the natural base you are unable to lift or deposit the correct tone to match the white hair. i.e. if the natural base is a 6 and you use an 8 on the hair but don’t use the correct peroxide to lift the natural hair to an 8, the white hair will be covered to an 8 and the natural will have only lifted to a 7, making the white hair lighter and giving the appearance of not covering.
Mixing Ratios?
There is no need to adjust your mixing ratios but choosing the right peroxide will allow you to lift the natural hair to the desired shade.
If you fail to correctly assess the natural base you are unable to lift or deposit the correct tone to match the white hair.
Tint = coverage
Peroxide = fuel to lift or deposit tone
It is a myth that you can only achieve white hair coverage with 20 Vol (6%). This may have been the case years ago, but as technology has moved on and you are able to gain coverage with 10,20,30 and 40 Vol.
i.e. if the natural base is a 6 and you use an 8 on the hair but don’t use the correct peroxide to lift the natural hair to an 8, the white hair will be covered to an 8 and the natural will have only lifted to a 7, making the white hair lighter and giving the appearance of not covering.
Peroxide Choice
Yellow’s peroxides are perfectly balanced to work in harmony with Yellow colour. They contain both Aloetrix and Argan Oil to ensure the best quality of colour. Using another brand of peroxide will not guarantee good white hair coverage as the colour will not be balanced. Our peroxides have been developed to give you the best results and are key to a successful colour, using another brand of peroxide will not allow you and your clients to achieve the best results possible.
As you move up a level of peroxide the timings alter, this is to allow the peroxide to lift the hair. If you remove the colour application before the full time has completed, the tone will not have deposited correctly. The last 10 minutes of the colouring service is where the deposit of colour occurs and needs the full time to achieve coverage, deposit of tone and longevity.
Case studies
Case study 1
- Natural base – 5
- Percentage of white hair – 60%
- Target colour – 8.3
- This client wants to be 3 shades lighter and has over 50% white hair.
- Client formula – 50g of 8 + 50g of 8.3 + 150g 40 vol.
We are using 40 vol as we need to lighten the natural hair from a base 5 to a base 8. The tube of tint is what will cover the white hair and not the peroxide.
If you used the same with 20 vol you would not achieve 100% coverage as the natural hair would only be lifted 1 shade to a base 6 and the white hair would be a base 8 making it look translucent.
Case study 2
- Natural base – 7
- Percentage of white hair – 30%
- Target colour – 7.1
- Client formula – 50g 7.1 + 75g 10vol
The client is a base 7 and only needs 10 vol as we are not lifting the natural hair and just depositing tone.
You are able to get white hair coverage with 10 vol. Using 20 vol would give you 1 shade of lift and would make the hair appear lighter than a 7.
Case study 3
- Natural base – 2
- Percentage of white hair – 70%
- Target colour – 5.3
- Client formula – 50g 5.3 + 50g 5 + 150g 40 vol
As the hair is over 50% white, it requires a base. There are 3 levels of lift required and 40 vol is required to lift the natural hair.
40 Vol can be used on the scalp. Yellow peroxide is low ammonia and contains both Aloetrix and Argain Oil. You are able to add Protective Oil into your colour or directly onto the scalp if required.
Case study 4
- Natural base – 7
- Percentage of white hair – 80%
- Target colour – 9.2
- Client formula – 50g 9Cool + 50g 9.2 + 150g 30 vol
The client’s natural hair needs to be lifted 2 shades and requires 30 vol.
If 20 vol was used the natural hair would only be lifted to an 8 and the white hair would be a level 9 and would look translucent compared to the rest of the coloured hair. The white hair is covered to a level 9 (as this is the tube of tint colour) but the natural hair was not lifted correctly.
Case Study 5
In this last case study we are looking at 100% white hair coverage. This is when the hair has NO natural pigment left at all and is 100% white hair only. It is recommended to use 20 vol. The reason for this is that 100% white hair tends to have more cuticle layers and needs a higher volume of peroxide to penetrate.
- Case study 100% white hair
- Natural base – 5
- Percentage of white hair – 100%
- Target colour – 8.3
- Client formula – 50g of 8 + 50g of 8.3 + 150g 20 vol.
There is no natural hair to lift and should be mixed with 20 Vol.
The use of 20 Vol is to allow the cuticle to open and for even distribution of colour.
White hair tends to have more cuticle layers and needs to have an adequate amount of colour applied to allow penetration. We recommend that you load the colour onto the white hair instead of brushing (wiping) the colour. At the end of the application check that the colour has a good layer of colour to allow even processing.
Summary
Our top tips are;
SCALES! All product must be weighed/ measured in accordance with manufactures instructions to achieve 100% coverage.
Application – Most of us were taught to ‘push’ the colour into the cuticle. Colour and their ingredients has radically changed since then.
To achieve maximum coverage and the desired chosen colour, we must now ‘place’ the product on to the hair, think soft, accurate, clean application. By placing the product we are sufficiently loading the hair with colour and not removing any product by ‘pushing’ it into the cuticle.
Timing – Always leave the maximum about of time for white hair coverage. Your last 10 minutes are when the tone is deposited.
Remember your Undercoats – Undercoats that may appear in the lifting process.